Łukasz Jemioł – autumn/winter 2016/17

2016-06-24 Łukasz Jemioł – autumn/winter 2016/17

First, there was darkness. The scenery was dark, actually black, set up in such a way as to resemble a snapshot of an old camera. Then, the screen showed a characteristic, black and white clock counting down seconds to the start of the show, and after that, fragments of “Knife in the water” by Polański and “Train” by Kawalerowicz. And it became clear, that cinema and picture from five decades ago will be the main motives of the autumn-winter collection by Jemioł.

Colors proposed by the designer were calm, kept in a cool tone. This is an interesting contrast for the show, which took place in thirty-degree, June heat. The catwalk was dominated by gray, blue and beige broken with delicate, powdery pink. Textures chosen by Jemioł also attracted attention. We also saw houndstooth check, fur in a magnificent version - on waistcoats and smaller, in the form of decorative collars or expressive, patterned tights which go hand in hand with shoes on thick platforms. Simple sweaters with different weaves and forms are combined with black and white, airy materials decorated with animal print.
When it comes to form, it is also difficult to escape from comparisons with the design and architecture of the 1960s. - we have box dresses, trapezoidal skirts and flared jeans. Mohair is mixed with cashmere, fringes with leather, and bold slits on the back contrast with extended shirts converted into built-up dresses with an envelope cut. A complement to the silhouettes are retro cameras worn instead of bags and faces of Leon Niemczyk and Lucyna Winnicka in the form of prints - on shirts, skirts, coats and a computer case.

What will the woman by Jemioł look like in the coming autumn? Ethereally and stylishly. She will draw her eyelid with a thick line of eyeliner, tease her hair and brush her bangs to the side. Her neck will be wrapped in a tippet, she will throw a bomber jacket on her shoulders and move ahead confidently. Will we also see her on the Polish street? We will find out soon.